Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II Ref 1655 Freccione Steve McQueen - Full service
This watch has been with it’s current owner from new. Time has made it a highly desirable and rare model. Especially in original condition. This example is excellent over all but requires some attention. There is a problem with the crown and stem coming loose from the movement. The plexi-glass is scratched and the watch is stopping.
The case and bracelet are very dirty but on the whole in good condition. There are a few light scuffs to the straight grain. A full case and bracelet refinish would not be appropriate on this model and would harm the value of the watch by reducing originality.
We will strip the case and bracelet down and clean it using our ultrasonic tank. We will lightly brush the bracelet to remove scuffs and carry out no polishing or refinishing to the case or bezel, just a good clean.
The marks on the glass detract from the appearance of the watch. They are difficult to photograph but look quite bad in person. A light refinish of the original glass will be a great improvement.
The pre-service test shows an amplitude of just 141 degrees. A sign of a lot of friction in the movement blocking power transfer to the escapement. A clean and fresh oils will help this watch greatly.
With the dial off we see one problem very quickly, there is far too much oil around the minute wheel and setting lever spring. This is odd because there is no sign of over oiling anywhere else and this is quite a lot of oil. Not something you would usually see in a Rolex as they are generally quite well serviced. To much oil can be just as bad as not enough when it comes to a low amplitude as it creates drag. Cleaning this off will help get the amplitude up.
The setting lever screw has sheared off and is stuck in the setting lever. We use a screw extraction tool to remove it without damage and save the setting lever. The retaining screw will need to be replaced though.
The old and new parts side by side.
The service continues. The watch is in remarkable condition for it’s age. A well maintained Rolex which has been regularly serviced will stay in excellent condition for decades. With proper maintenance there is almost no wear to any parts.
The escapement under the microscope as we rebuild it. The parts are still quite sharp and in good order. The build quality is outstanding. This watch has been worn daily since the early 1980’s and looks great inside. An advert for regular servicing if ever there was one. This watch was overdue for a service but has been well maintained in the past when the owner was a younger man.
We recently worked on a 1980’s ladies Datejust, which was a slightly newer model than this, but had never been serviced. The wear on the pivots was vastly different to the point where every part of the train would need replacement to restore good working order and remove positional errors. The watch ran a minute per day faster on it’s back compared to the front. Avoiding proper maintenance is definitely a false economy.
In contrast, this Explorer has been relatively well looked after and is a pleasure to work with.
The after service trace is much improved. The Amplitude is back up to a very respectable 296 degrees. This would be a good amplitude on a brand new watch nevermind a watch of this age. Another testament to the build quality of the watch and excellent condition.
The chronometer specs for a new Rolex are +6/-4 seconds per day so this watch would still pass chronometer requirements for a brand new watch.
The original glass looks as good as new after a light polish (the distortion around the cyclops is the reflection of our window writing). The case and bracelet are still appropriately worn and look great now they are clean.
When working on a watch such as this it is important to treat it appropriately.
There are 3 types of watch servicing. We must balance conservation, restoration and repair. Deciding where to draw the line between preserving history and providing maintenance for the watch. It is important to get this right and not remove the items originality. I believe we have balanced this successfully and treated this watch with the right amount of care. Allowing us to improve the appearance whilst also maintaining the watches patina and originality.
The bracelet was in great condition already, but just 30 seconds worth of straight graining have removed the light surface marks.
This service was carried out at a total cost of £380. If you have a similar watch which requires some attention please get in touch to discuss your needs.